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Ocean Wave Climate


Author : M. D. Earle
language : en
Publisher: Springer Science & Business Media
Release Date : 2013-03-08

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Download Ocean Wave Climate written by M. D. Earle and has been published by Springer Science & Business Media this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 2013-03-08 with Science categories.


Waves critically affect man in coastal regions, including the open coasts and adjacent continental shelves. Preventing beach erosion, designing and building structures, designing and operating ships, providing marine forecasts, and coastal planning are but a few examples of projects for which extensive information about wave conditions is critical. Scientific studies, especially those in volving coastal processes and the development of better wave prediction models, also require wave condition information. How ever, wave conditions along and off the coasts of the United States have not been adequately determined. The main categories of available wave data are visual estimates of wave conditions made from ships at sea, scientific measurements of waves made for short time periods at specific locations, and a small number of long-term measurements made from piers or offshore platforms. With these considerations in mind, the National Ocean Survey of the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration sponsored the Ocean Wave Climate Symposium at Herndon, Virginia, July 12-14, 1977. This volume contains papers presented at this symposium. A goal of the symposium was to establish the foundations for a com prehensive and far-sighted wave measurement and analysis program to fully describe the coastal wave climate of the United States. Emphasis was placed on ocean engineering and scientific uses of wave data, existing wave monitoring programs, and modern measure ment techniques which may provide currently needed data.

Waves In Oceanic And Coastal Waters


Author : Leo H. Holthuijsen
language : en
Publisher: Cambridge University Press
Release Date : 2010-02-04

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Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters describes the observation, analysis and prediction of wind-generated waves in the open ocean, in shelf seas, and in coastal regions with islands, channels, tidal flats and inlets, estuaries, fjords and lagoons. Most of this richly illustrated book is devoted to the physical aspects of waves. After introducing observation techniques for waves, both at sea and from space, the book defines the parameters that characterise waves. Using basic statistical and physical concepts, the author discusses the prediction of waves in oceanic and coastal waters, first in terms of generalised observations, and then in terms of the more theoretical framework of the spectral energy balance. He gives the results of established theories and also the direction in which research is developing. The book ends with a description of SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore), the preferred computer model of the engineering community for predicting waves in coastal waters.

Hydrodynamics Of Ocean Wave Energy Utilization


Author : David V. Evans
language : en
Publisher: Springer Science & Business Media
Release Date : 2012-12-06

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Download Hydrodynamics Of Ocean Wave Energy Utilization written by David V. Evans and has been published by Springer Science & Business Media this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 2012-12-06 with Science categories.


The papers which follow were presented at an International Sym posium held in Lisbon from 8-11 July 1985 on the Hydrodynamics of Ocean Wave-Energy Utilization and sponsored by the Interna tional Union of Theoretical and Applied Mechanics. The subject of the Symposium embraced wave statistics, numerical methods, theoretical, experimental and field studies of wave energy devices. The idea of extracting useful energy from ocean waves continues to attract the curiosity of scientists and engineers in many parts of the world as the following papers indicate. Increasing ly the trend is towards smaller devices suitable for use near remote island communities where wave power, as an alternative to costly diesel fuel for electric generators, is already very competitive in economic terms. The decision to build two different prototype wave-power devices into the cliffs off Bergen in Norway has provided a welcome impetus to the field, stimulating a large amount of theoretical work on oscillating water column-type devices. In particular phase control methods - in which force and velocity of a rigid body, or pressure and volume flux across a turbine are matched in phase to achieve maximum power output - rightfully occupy a central place in the papers that follow. In addition to the established workers in the field, a new ge neration of wave-energy enthusiasts is emerging, learning from the mistakes of others and contributing exciting ideas of both a conceptual and practical nature.

Morphodynamics Of Mediterranean Mixed Sand And Gravel Coasts


Author : Miguel Ortega-Sánchez
language : en
Publisher: Springer
Release Date : 2017-02-22

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This book describes recent advances in the morphodynamics of mixed sand and gravel Mediterranean coasts, and provides updates and new methods for their study and management. It assesses how the differences in the geomorphic setting, in comparison with traditional sandy beaches, result in distinctive physical processes governing the dynamics of these coasts. Further, on the basis of field measurements, theoretical analysis and numerical modeling carried out at two study sites in southern Spain over the last 15 years, the book studies, analyzes and compares these physical processes and mechanisms. It also shows that the narrow and complex bathymetries and inner shelves modify the wave propagation patterns and hence, the longshore sediment transport gradients along the coast. Given the correlation between the changes in these gradients and the shoreline evolution over time, it identifies the complexity of the inner shelf bathymetries as the main driver of coastal changes and describes these processes in detail using, in the plan view, the inter-annual evolution of unaltered and “altered by human” beaches. Lastly, the book details how the generation and subsequent overlapping of berms across the beach profile are responsible for the sediment variability at depth and cross-shore, and concludes that the total run-up (including the water-level) is a more influential variable than wave height in the erosional/depositional response of these beaches.

The Interaction Of Ocean Waves And Wind


Author : Peter Janssen
language : en
Publisher: Cambridge University Press
Release Date : 2004-10-28

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This book was published in 2004. The Interaction of Ocean Waves and Wind describes in detail the two-way interaction between wind and ocean waves and shows how ocean waves affect weather forecasting on timescales of 5 to 90 days. Winds generate ocean waves, but at the same time airflow is modified due to the loss of energy and momentum to the waves; thus, momentum loss from the atmosphere to the ocean depends on the state of the waves. This volume discusses ocean wave evolution according to the energy balance equation. An extensive overview of nonlinear transfer is given, and as a by-product the role of four-wave interactions in the generation of extreme events, such as freak waves, is discussed. Effects on ocean circulation are described. Coupled ocean-wave, atmosphere modelling gives improved weather and wave forecasts. This volume will interest ocean wave modellers, physicists and applied mathematicians, and engineers interested in shipping and coastal protection.

Climate And The Oceans


Author : Geoffrey K. Vallis
language : en
Publisher: Princeton University Press
Release Date : 2012

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Explores climate and oceans, providing a look at the basics of climate, a descriptive overview of the oceans, a brief introduction to dynamics, and coverage of other related topics.

Handbook Of Coastal And Ocean Engineering


Author : Young C. Kim
language : en
Publisher: World Scientific
Release Date : 2010

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This handbook contains a comprehensive compilation of topics that are at the forefront of many of the technical advances in ocean waves, coastal, and ocean engineering. More than 70 internationally recognized authorities in the field of coastal and ocean engineering have contributed articles on their areas of expertise to this handbook. These international luminaries are from highly respected universities and renowned research and consulting organizations from all over the world. This handbook provides a comprehensive overview of shallow-water waves, water level fluctuations, coastal and offshore structures, port and harbors, coastal sediment processes, environmental problems, coastal hazards, physical modeling, and other issues in coastal and ocean engineering. It is an essential reference for professionals and researchers in the areas of coastal engineering, ocean engineering, oceanography, and meteorology, as well as an invaluable text for graduate students in these fields. Sample Chapter(s). Chapter 1: Wave Setup (2,255 KB). Chapter 2: Wavemaker Theories (607 KB). Contents: Shallow-Water Waves: Wave Setup (Robert G Dean and Todd L Walton ); Wavemaker Theories ( Robert T Hudspeth and Ronald B Guenther ); Analyses by the Melnikov Method of Damped Parametrically Excited Cross Waves (Ronald B Guenther and Robert T Hudspeth); Random Wave Breaking and Nonlinearity Evolution Across the Surf Zone (Yoshimi Goda); Aeration and Bubbles in the Surf Zone (Nobuhito Mori, Shohachi Kakuno and Daniel T Cox); Freak Wave (Nobuhito Mori); Short-Term Wave Statistics (Akira Kimura); Water-Level Fluctuations: Generation and Prediction of Seiches in Rotterdam Harbor Basins (Martijn P C de Jong and Jurjen A Battjes); Seiches and Harbor Oscillations (Alexander B Rabinovich); Finite Difference Model for Practical Simulation of Distant Tsunamis (Sung Bum Yoon); Coastal Structures: Tsunami-Induced Forces on Structures ( Ioan Nistor, Dan Palermo, Younes Nouri, Tad S Murty and Murat Saatcioglu); Nonconventional Wave Damping Structures (Hocine Oumeraci); Wave Interaction with Breakwaters Including Perforated Walls (Kyung-Duck Suh); Prediction of Overtopping (Jentsje van der Meer, Tim Pullen, William Allsop, Tom Bruce, Holger Schttrumpf and Andreas Kortenhaus); Wave Run-Up and Wave Overtopping at Armored Rubble Slopes and Mounds (Holger Schttrumpf, Jentsje van der Meer, Andreas Kortenhaus, Tom Bruce and Leopoldo Franco ); Wave Overtopping at Vertical and Steep Structures (Tom Bruce, Jentsje van der Meer, Tim Pullen and W Allsop); Surf Parameters for the Design of Coastal Structures (Dong Hoon Yoo); Development of Caisson Breakwater Design Based on Failure Experiences (Shigeo Takahashi); Design of Alternative Revetments ( Krystian W Pilarczyk ); Remarks on Coastal Stabilization and Alternative Solutions (Krystian Pilarczyk); Geotextile Sand Containers for Shore Protection (Hocine Oumeraci and Juan Recio); Low Crested Breakwaters (Alberto Lamberti and Barbara Zanuttigh ); Hydrodynamic Behavior of Net Cages in the Open Sea ( Yu-Cheng Li ); Offshore Structures: State of Offshore Structure Development and Design Challenges (Subrata Chakrabarti); Ports and Harbors: Computer Modeling for Harbor Planning and Design (Jiin-Jen Lee and Xiuying Xing); Prediction of Squat for Underkeel Clearance ( Michael J Briggs, Marc Vantorre, Klemens Uliczka and Pierre Debaillon); Coastal Sediment Processes: Wave-Induced Resuspension of Fine Sediment (Mamta Jain and Ashish J Mehta); Suspended Sand and Bedload Transport on Beaches (Nobuhisa Kobayashi, Andres Payo and Bradley D Johnson); Headland-Bay Beaches for Recreation and Shore Protection (John Rong-Chung Hsu, Melissa Meng-Jiuan Yu, Fang-Chun Lee and Richard Silvester); Beach Nourishment (Robert G Dean and Julie D Rosati); Engineering of Tidal Inlets and Morphologic Consequences (Nicholas C Kraus); Environmental Problems: Water and Nutrients Flow in the Enclosed Bays (Yukio Koibuchi & Masahiko Isobe ); Sustainable Coastal Development: Socioeconomic and Environmental Risk in Coastal and Ocean Engineering ( Miguel A Losada Rodr guez, Asuncion Baquerizo, Miquel Ortega-Sinchez, Juan M Santiago and Elena Sinchez-Badorrey); Utilization of the Coastal Area ( Hwung-Hweng Hwung ); Coastal Hazards: Ocean Wave Climates: Trends and Variations Due to Earth''s Changing Climate (Paul D Komar, Jonathan C Allan and Peter Ruggiero); Sea Level Rise: Major Implications to Coastal Engineering and Coastal Management (Lesley Ewing); Sea Level Rise and Coastal Erosion (Marcel J F Stive, Roshanka Ranasinghe and Peter J Cowell); Coastal Flooding: Analysis and Assessment of Risk (Panayotis Prinos and Panagiota Galiatsatou); Physical Modeling: Physical Modeling of Tsunami Waves (Michael J Briggs, Harry Yeh and Daniel T Cox); Laboratory Simulation of Waves (Etienne P D Mansard and Michael D Miles); Coastal Engineering Practice and Education: Perspective on Coastal Engineering Practice and Education ( J William Kamphuis ). Readership: Graduate students, researchers and professionals in coastal and ocean engineering, oceanography and meteorology."