Ocean Surface Waves: Their Physics And Prediction (Third Edition) (Advanced Series On Ocean Engineer

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Author : Massel Stanislaw Ryszard
Genre : Science

Summary : This book is an extended and substantially updated edition of the previous book editions published in 1996 and 2013 under the same title. The 3rd edition is a one-volume, modern and comprehensive overview of the current knowledge of regular and random ocean surface waves in deep waters and in coastal zones. Since the previous editions many new theoretical advances have been made in the physical understanding and analytical and numerical treatment of various ocean wave problems. The revisions and supplements demanded by these advances have been substantial, therefore the scope of the book has been extended by adding a new chapter and substantially supplementing others. All chapters of the book have been rewritten to include and describe in detail many new discoveries made since the completion of the previous editions. In this 3rd edition a comprehensive and updated overview of the fundamentals of the regular wave mechanics, as well as the spectral and statistical properties of random waves are given. Except for the updated chapters dedicated to tsunami and extreme waves, a new chapter dealing with other types of impulsive waves starting from rest, are also included. The air-sea interaction processes as well as the last improvements in ocean wave modelling and presently available wave prediction models (WAM, WAVEWATCH III, UMWM, NEMO) are thoroughly discussed and their applications are demonstrated. The review of the present ocean observation methods encompasses the modern sea-truthing, as well as applications of data from presently operating marine satellites. In this revised edition, chapters on the behavior of surface waves in the vegetated environments such as coral reef, mangrove forest, seaweed and seagrass areas are substantially extended and updated to include the last discoveries. The explanations in the book are self-contained and detailed enough to capture the interest of the potential readers and to prompt them to explore the research literature. The list of rapidly growing number of the recent papers on the ocean waves has been extended substantially, up to about 900 titles. Contents: IntroductionInteraction of Surface Waves and WindSpectral Properties of Ocean WavesStatistical Properties of Ocean WavesProperties of Breaking WavesPrediction of Waves in Deep WaterPrediction of Waves in Shallow WaterRogue WavesWave Motion Starting from Rest: TsunamiWave Motion Starting from Rest: Other ExamplesWaves at Coral Reefs and IslandsWaves in Vegetated CoastsWave-induced Pressure and Flow in a Porous BottomWave Observations and Long-term StatisticsWave Measurement TechniquesData Processing and Simulation Techniques Readership: Graduate students, professionals and researchers, including marine research specialist, in ocean and coastal engineering and oceanography. Keywords: Ocean Wave Physics;Wave Mathematical Principles;Spectral Analysis of Waves;Statistics of Observed Waves;Wave Numerical Modelling;Waves in Vegetated Coasts;Extreme WavesReview: Key Features: The book presents a comprehensive, broad-scope and modern one-volume study of the ocean surface wavesAll subjects are presented with the aim of demonstrating the close link between ocean physics and wave predictions, as well as ocean engineeringThe book includes recent achievements published in languages other than English, such as Russian and Polish, with very extensive list of references encompassing more than 900 titles

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Author : Stanisław R Massel
Genre : Technology & Engineering

Summary : This book is intended as a handbook for professionals and researchers in the areas of Physical Oceanography, Ocean and Coastal Engineering and as a text for graduate students in these fields. It presents a comprehensive study on surface ocean waves induced by wind, including basic mathematical principles, physical description of the observed phenomena, practical forecasting techniques of various wave parameters and applications in ocean and coastal engineering, all from the probabilistic and spectral points of view. The book commences with a description of mechanisms of surface wave generation by wind and its modern modeling techniques. The stochastic and probabilistic terminology is introduced and the basic statistical and spectral properties of ocean waves are developed and discussed in detail. The bulk of material deals with the prediction techniques for waves in deep and coastal waters for simple and complex ocean basins and complex bathymetry. The various prediction methods, currently used in oceanography and ocean engineering, are described and the examples of practical calculations illustrate the basic text. An appendix provides a description of the modern methods of wave measurement, including the remote sensing techniques. Also the wave simulation methods and random data analysis techniques are discussed. In the book a lot of discoveries of the Russian and East European scientists, largely unknown in the Western literature due to the language barrier, are referred to. Contents:IntroductionGeneration of Waves by WindSpectral Properties of Ocean WavesStatistical Properties of Ocean WavesPrediction of Ocean Waves in Deep WaterPrediction of Ocean Waves in Shallow WaterWaves at Islands and Coral ReefsLong-Term Statistics for Ocean Surface WavesMeasurement, Simulation and Data ProcessingReferences Readership: Researchers and graduate students in physical oceanography, ocean and coastal engineering. keywords:Ocean Waves;Spectral Analysis;Statistical Analysis;Stochastic Processes;Measurement Techniques;Data Processing;Remote Sensing Techniques;Wave Modelling;Similarity Laws;Ocean Wave Spectra;Nonlinear Wave Analysis;Long-Term Statistics “The range of topics and applications is far more extensive; there is much more to tie together. The treatment is less discursive and somewhat more demanding, but always clear to a technically-trained reader … should be available to all physical and dynamical oceanographers interested in applications, and should be close at hand to graduate students and practitioners of ocean and coastal engineering.” Applied Mechanics Reviews

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Author : Stanisław R Massel
Genre : Technology & Engineering

Summary : The book is an extended and updated edition of the book published in 1996 under the same title (World Scientific, ISBN 9810216866). It contains a very comprehensive and extensive study on surface ocean waves induced by wind, earthquakes and possible landslides and asteroids impacts. The basic mathematical principles, physical description of the observed phenomena, practical forecasting techniques of the various wave parameters and extended application in ocean and coastal engineering, are discussed from the stochastic point of view. All chapters were completely rewritten and supplemented with many new discoveries which were published since the first edition in 1996. In particular, new chapters are added on very interesting and contemporary topics such as: wave breaking mechanisms in deep- and shallow water, freak waves, tsunami, water circulation in porous sea bottom induced by surface waves, and waves propagation through mangrove forests. In terms of numerical modeling, the state of the art of the modern methodology of wave prediction models WAM and SWAN, as well as of the high sophisticated satellite methods of waves measurement and modern methods of signal processing, including wavelets approach and Hilbert Transform approach are presented. The book is supplemented with an extended list of relevant and extended, contemporary bibliography, subject index and author index. Contents:IntroductionInteraction of Wind and Ocean WavesSpectral Properties of Ocean WavesStatistical Properties of Ocean WavesProperties of Breaking WavesPrediction of Waves in Deep WaterPrediction of Waves in Shallow WaterFreak WavesTsunamiWaves at Islands and Coral ReefsWaves in Mangrove ForestsWave-induced Pressure and Flow in a Porous BottomWave Observations and Long-Term StatisticsWave Measurement TechniquesData Processing and Simulation Techniques Readership: Graduate students, professionals and researchers, including marine research specialist, in ocean and coastal engineering and oceanography. Keywords:Surface Waves;Freak Waves;Tsunami;Deep Sea Dynamics;Coastal Water Dynamics;Coastal Engineering;Coral Reef Hydrodynamics;Flow in Mangrove Forest;Circulation in Porous Media;Stochastic Processes Fundamentals;Data Processing;Simulation TechniquesKey Features:In comparison with the first book edition, this second edition contains a substantial amount of new material on the topics contemporary discussed within the marine communityAll material is treated in an uniform way based on the modern stochastic approachMany practical examples, interesting for oceanographers and marine engineers, illustrate the theoretical and numerical results

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Author : Stanislaw R. Massel
Genre : Science

Summary : The book contains a comprehensive study on surface ocean waves induced by wind, earthquakes, and possibly landslides and asteroids impacts. Basic mathematical principles, physical description of the observed phenomena, practical forecasting techniques of the various wave parameters and extended application in ocean and coastal engineering, are discussed from the stochastic point of view. New topics include wave breaking mechanisms in deep- and shallow water, and freak waves.

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Author : Chiang C Mei
Genre : Science

Summary : This book set is a revised version of the 2005 edition of Theory and Applications of Ocean Surface Waves. It presents theoretical topics on ocean wave dynamics, including basic principles and applications in coastal and offshore engineering as well as coastal oceanography. Advanced analytical and numerical techniques are demonstrated. In this revised version, five chapters on recent developments in linear and nonlinear aspects have been added. The first is on detailed analyses in Wave/Structure Interactions. The second is a new section on Waves through a Marine Forest, a topic motivated by its possible relevance to tsunami reduction. The third is on Long Waves in Shallow Water and the fourth is an update on Broad-Banded Nonlinear Surface Waves in the Open Sea to include new findings in this topic. The fifth is an expanded chapter on Numerical Simulation of Nonlinear Wave Dynamics to include predictions of nonlinear spectral evolution and rogue wave occurrence and dynamics using large-scale phase-resolved simulations. This revised version also includes recent developments in precorrected-FFT accelerated O(N log N) low- and high-order boundary element methods for the computation of fully nonlinear wave-wave and wave-body interactions.Theory and Applications of Ocean Surface Waves (2016) will be invaluable for graduate students and researchers in coastal and ocean engineering, geophysical fluid dynamicists interested in water waves, and theoretical scientists and applied mathematicians wishing to develop new techniques for challenging problems or to apply techniques existing elsewhere.

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Author : Takayama Tomotsuka
Genre : Science

Summary : The book is organized into two parts: the first part covers (i) the precious lessons obtained from recent actual tsunami disasters including the 2004 Indian Ocean Tsunami and 2011 Great East Japan Earthquake Disaster, (ii) fundamental knowledge of tsunami for our survival, and (iii) concludes the lessons learnt and listing measures for tsunami disaster mitigation for saving human lives. The second part presents tsunami from academic perspective in two chapters: one describes tsunami occurrence mechanism and near-shore behavior; the other mentions numerical simulation and forecasting of tsunami. Contents: How Can We Escape a Tsunami?: Examples of Tsunami Disasters Tsunami Disaster Knowledge for Tsunami Survival Prevention and Mitigation of Tsunami Disasters Tsunami Behavior and Forecasting: Occurrence and Amplification of Tsunamis Tsunami Simulations and Forecasting Systems Readership: Undergraduates and graduates interested in tsunamis, tsunami mitigation planners, oceanographers and physicists, especially residents in tsunami prone areas. Keywords: Tsunami;Disaster;Mitigation;Hardware;Software;Hazard MapReview: Key Features: The book aims to provide scientific information and knowledge for survival from tsunami to people who live or may possibly live in the areas prone to tsunami, or travelers who may visit such areas All these chapters are described from the viewpoint of saving human lives through lessons learnt and measures for tsunami disaster mitigation Written by world renowned experts on tsunami

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Author : David Basco
Genre : Science

Summary : This timely book is about how to design alternatives to reduce coastal flood and wave damage, erosion, and loss of ecosystems facing an unknown future of sea level rise. The latest theories are interlaced with applied examples from the authors' 48 years of experience in teaching, research, and as a practicing, professional engineer in coastal engineering. The design process takes into consideration all the design constraints (scientific, engineering, economic, environmental, social/political/institutional, aesthetic, and media) to meet today's client needs, expectations, and budgets for an uncertain future.The book is organized as a textbook for graduate students. And, it is a self-contained reference for government and consulting engineers responsible for finding solutions to coastal hazards facing the world's coastal populations. New solutions are included in the book that help people of all socio-economic levels living at the coast. Both risk reduction metrics quantified in monetary terms, and increased resilience metrics quantified as vulnerability reduction must now be taken into consideration to make equitable design decisions on hazard mitigation alternatives.In the Anthropocene Era, under 'deep uncertainty' in global mean sea level predictions for the future, today's designs must mitigate today's storm damages, and be adaptable for the unpredictable water levels and storms of the future. This book includes a design 'philosophy' for water levels to year 2050 and for the long term from 2050 to 2100. Multiple spreadsheets are provided and organized to aid the design process.This is an exciting time to be 'thinkers' as Civil/Coastal engineers.Related Link(s)