Accessories To Modernity
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Accessories To Modernity
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Author : Susan Hiner
language : en
Publisher: University of Pennsylvania Press
Release Date : 2011-06-06
Accessories To Modernity written by Susan Hiner and has been published by University of Pennsylvania Press this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 2011-06-06 with Literary Criticism categories.
Accessories to Modernity explores the ways in which feminine fashion accessories, such as cashmere shawls, parasols, fans, and handbags, became essential instruments in the bourgeois idealization of womanhood in nineteenth-century France. Considering how these fashionable objects were portrayed in fashion journals and illustrations, as well as fiction, the book explores the histories and cultural weight of the objects themselves and offers fresh readings of works by Balzac, Flaubert, and Zola, some of the most widely read novels of the period. As social boundaries were becoming more and more fluid in the nineteenth century, one effort to impose order over the looming confusion came, in the case of women, through fashion, and the fashion accessory thus became an ever more crucial tool through which social distinction could be created, projected, and maintained. Looking through the lens of fashion, Susan Hiner explores the interplay of imperialist expansion and domestic rituals, the assertion of privilege in the face of increasing social mobility, gendering practices and their relation to social hierarchies, and the rise of commodity culture and woman's paradoxical status as both consumer and object within it. Through her close focus on these luxury objects, Hiner reframes the feminine fashion accessory as a key symbol of modernity that bridges the erotic and proper, the domestic and exotic, and mass production and the work of art while making a larger claim about the "accessory" status—in terms of both complicity and subordination—of bourgeois women in nineteenth-century France. Women were not simply passive bystanders but rather were themselves accessories to the work of modernity from which they were ostensibly excluded.
Women S Fashion Accessories Gender Modernity And National Identity In Nineteenth Century Iberian And Latin American Cultures
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Author : Ines Corujo Martin
language : en
Publisher:
Release Date : 2018
Women S Fashion Accessories Gender Modernity And National Identity In Nineteenth Century Iberian And Latin American Cultures written by Ines Corujo Martin and has been published by this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 2018 with Hispanic Americans categories.
In the first chapter, I discuss how accessories designed in Paris helped articulate the evolving idea of “modernity” and reinforced its artistic expression. The second chapter covers Spanish mantillas and Argentine peinetones, both of which were employed to identify and polarize the ideological gap between political groups. In subsequent chapters, I consider accessories of Asian origins––Spanish mantones de Manila and Mexican rebozos––in relation to issues of national identity, race, and social class. Finally, I analyze the role of corsets within the changing position of femininity and female participation in the public sphere.
Behind The Seams
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Author : Susan Hiner
language : en
Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing
Release Date : 2023-09-07
Behind The Seams written by Susan Hiner and has been published by Bloomsbury Publishing this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 2023-09-07 with Design categories.
In this highly original book, Susan E. Hiner looks behind fashion's seams and focuses on the women fashion producers both working- and middle-class who were key to shaping the French fashion economy. Behind the Seams thus opens up the fields of both fashion and French cultural studies and explores new ways of understanding the 19th century by demonstrating that these women's complex and contradictory roles as producers of luxury items left them exploited by an oppressive fashion system even as they served as influencers within it. In 19th-century France, fashion was a powerful and lucrative network that depended on women's expert manipulation of its raw materials. The delicate finger work of seamstresses and modistes yielded frothy dresses and ethereal hats; the subtle, persuasive rhetoric of written chronicles resulted in savvy, targeted marketing campaigns of goods and lifestyles; and the stylized visual splendour of the detailed drawing, engraving, and painting of fashion plates fed an aspirational fantasy that ended in consumption. Yet this fashion system paradoxically effaced many of the women on whom it depended. Rather than repeating the familiar narrative of women as victims of fashion, Behind the Seams tells a more complicated story. Hiner's close examination reveals the productive women workers, writers, and artists who achieved agency, influence, and active careers even as their work and lives were masked by the ways in which they were mythologized in popular culture, rendered anonymous, and marginalized by institutional exclusion. Beautifully illustrated in colour throughout, Behind the Seams is a rich resource and essential reading for all those interested in fashion history, 19th-century French history and visual culture, and the social history of women.
Jewellery In The Age Of Modernism 1918 1940
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Author : Simon Bliss
language : en
Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing USA
Release Date : 2018-11-15
Jewellery In The Age Of Modernism 1918 1940 written by Simon Bliss and has been published by Bloomsbury Publishing USA this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 2018-11-15 with Art categories.
Why has jewellery and body adornment often been marginalized in studies of modernist art and design? This study explores the relationship between jewellery, modernism and modernity from the 'jazz age' to the second world war in order to challenge the view that these portable art forms have only a minor role to play in histories of modernism. From the masterworks of the Parisian jewellery houses to the film and photography of Man Ray, this study seeks to present jewellery in a new light, where issues of representation and display are considered to be as important in the creation of a modern 'jewellery culture' as the objects themselves. Drawing on material from museums, archives, contemporary journals, memoirs, literary and theoretical texts, this study shows how the emergence of modern jewellery began to seriously question conventional notions of body adornment.
Fashioning Spaces
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Author : Heidi Brevik-Zender
language : en
Publisher: University of Toronto Press
Release Date : 2015-01-01
Fashioning Spaces written by Heidi Brevik-Zender and has been published by University of Toronto Press this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 2015-01-01 with Art categories.
In Fashioning Spaces, Heidi Brevik-Zender argues that in the years between 1870 and 1900 the chroniclers of Parisian modernity depicted the urban landscape not just in public settings such as boulevards and parks but also in dislocations, spaces where the public and the intimate overlapped in provocative and subversive ways. Stairwells, theatre foyers, dressmakers' studios, and dressing rooms were in-between places that have long been overlooked but were actually marked as indisputably modern through their connections with high fashion. Fashioning Spaces engages with and thinks beyond the work of critics Charles Baudelaire and Walter Benjamin to arrive at new readings of the French capital. Examining literature by Zola, Maupassant, Rachilde, and others, as well as paintings, architecture, and the fashionable garments worn by both men and women, Brevik-Zender crafts a compelling and innovative account of how fashion was appropriated as a way of writing about the complexities of modernity in fin-de-siècle Paris.
Making Up Modernity
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Author : Susan Lynn Keller
language : en
Publisher:
Release Date : 2008
Making Up Modernity written by Susan Lynn Keller and has been published by this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 2008 with categories.
This dissertation argues that makeup was crucial to the consolidation of a new type of identity at the beginning of the twentieth century. As attitudes about makeup changed from shock and disgust to acceptance of it as an unremarkable, everyday phenomenon, makeup did important work of suturing female identity into a consumer economy. The modern sense of self located identity on the surface of the body and in the accessories purchased for it rather than the older notion of character emerging from within the body in an essentialist fashion.
Fashion Identity And Power In Modern Asia
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Author : Kyunghee Pyun
language : en
Publisher: Springer
Release Date : 2018-10-25
Fashion Identity And Power In Modern Asia written by Kyunghee Pyun and has been published by Springer this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 2018-10-25 with Social Science categories.
This edited volume on radical dress reforms in East Asia takes a fresh look at the symbols and languages of modernity in dress and body. Dress reform movements around the turn of the twentieth century in the region have received little critical attention as a multicultural discourse of labor, body, gender identity, colonialism, and government authority. With contributions by leading experts of costume/textile history of China, Korea, and Japan, this book presents up-to-date scholarship using diverse methodologies in costume history, history of consumption, and international trade. Thematically organized into sections exploring the garments and uniforms, accessories, fabrics, and fashion styles of Asia, this edited volume offers case studies for students and scholars in an ever-expanding field of material culture including, but not limited to, economic history, visual culture, art history, history of journalism, and popular culture. Fashion, Identity, and Power in Modern Asia stimulates further research on the impact of modernity and imperialism in neglected areas such as military uniform, school uniform, women’s accessories, hairstyles, and textile trade.
Fashion And Orientalism
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Author : Adam Geczy
language : en
Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing
Release Date : 2013-08-01
Fashion And Orientalism written by Adam Geczy and has been published by Bloomsbury Publishing this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 2013-08-01 with Design categories.
Orientalism is a central factor within the fashion system, both subtle and overt. In this groundbreaking book, the author shows the extent of the influence that the Orient had, and continues to have, on fashion. Our concept of Western fashion is unthinkable without it, whether in terms of the growth of the cotton industry or of garments we take for granted, such as the dressing gown. From pre-modern to contemporary times, this book demonstrates that, in the realms of fashion, the Orient is not simply a construction or a fascination of the imperial West with its eastern other. Rather, it reveals the extent of cross-pollination, exchange and multiple translation that has taken place between East and West for the last 500 years. Exploring topics including Chinoiserie, masquerade, bohemianism, Japonisme, the "de-Orientalization" of the Orient, perfume and the birth of couture, Fashion and Orientalism is an essential read for students and scholars of fashion, cultural studies and history.
Modernity And Its Discontents
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Author : Steven B. Smith
language : en
Publisher: Yale University Press
Release Date : 2016-08-09
Modernity And Its Discontents written by Steven B. Smith and has been published by Yale University Press this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 2016-08-09 with Philosophy categories.
Steven B. Smith examines the concept of modernity, not as the end product of historical developments but as a state of mind. He explores modernism as a source of both pride and anxiety, suggesting that its most distinctive characteristics are the self-criticisms and doubts that accompany social and political progress. Providing profiles of the modern project’s most powerful defenders and critics—from Machiavelli and Spinoza to Saul Bellow and Isaiah Berlin—this provocative work of philosophy and political science offers a novel perspective on what it means to be modern and why discontent and sometimes radical rejection are its inevitable by-products.
The Ride To Modernity
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Author : G. B. Norcliffe
language : en
Publisher: University of Toronto Press
Release Date : 2001-01-01
The Ride To Modernity written by G. B. Norcliffe and has been published by University of Toronto Press this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 2001-01-01 with Sports & Recreation categories.
An examination how the bicycle as a symbol of modernity and social status fits into the larger picture of change and progress in a period of dramatic economic, social, and technological flux.