Big Wave
DOWNLOAD
Download Big Wave PDF/ePub or read online books in Mobi eBooks. Click Download or Read Online button to get Big Wave book now. This website allows unlimited access to, at the time of writing, more than 1.5 million titles, including hundreds of thousands of titles in various foreign languages. If the content not found or just blank you must refresh this page
The Big Wave
DOWNLOAD
Author : Pearl S. Buck
language : en
Publisher: Open Road Media
Release Date : 2012-08-21
The Big Wave written by Pearl S. Buck and has been published by Open Road Media this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 2012-08-21 with Juvenile Fiction categories.
The classic tale of a Japanese boy orphaned by a tsunami from the author of The Good Earth, the first American woman to win the Nobel Prize in Literature. On a mountainside in Japan, two boys enjoy a humble life governed by age-old customs. Jiya belongs to a family of fishermen; his best friend, Kino, farms rice. But when a neighboring volcano erupts and a tidal wave swallows their village—including Jiya’s family—life as they know it is changed forever. The orphaned Jiya must learn to come to terms with his grief. Now facing a profoundly different life than the one he’d always taken for granted, he must decide on a new way forward. Written with graceful simplicity, The Big Wave won the Children’s Book Award of the Child Study Association of America when it was first released. This ebook features an illustrated biography of Pearl S. Buck including rare images from the author’s estate.
Big Wave Surfer
DOWNLOAD
Author : Kai Lenny
language : en
Publisher: Rizzoli Publications
Release Date : 2021-10-26
Big Wave Surfer written by Kai Lenny and has been published by Rizzoli Publications this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 2021-10-26 with Sports & Recreation categories.
A jaw-dropping photographic display of the world of big wave surfing, featuring the biggest and most dangerous waves and the legendary men and women who risk their lives to surf them. Over the last decade, a handful of surfers have been progressing the sport of big wave surfing to new extremes. Kai Lenny, one of the preeminent big wave surfers, offers readers a glimpse into this world. Lenny shares his personal stories and perspectives, and invites over 30 elite surfers—from legends who pioneered the way, to young guns who are the future of the sport—to contribute personal tales of the greatest waves ever ridden. These are the stories we’ve been waiting for: Shane Dorian pushing the boundaries in the gladiator arena of Pe‘ahi (Jaws), Maui; Peter Mel on riding the greatest wave ever caught at Mavericks, California; Keala Kennelly breaking the women’s glass ceiling at the death-defying slabs of Teahupoo, Tahiti; Kai Lenny and Lucas Chumbo’s groundbreaking wins at the incredible Nazaré, Portugal; Brett Lickle’s epic incident at the mystical Pyramids with Laird Hamilton, and many more. Accompanying stunning photographs from the world’s top surf photographers capture the drama of life and death, and the unwavering commitment of these brave extreme athletes.
Sarah And The Big Wave
DOWNLOAD
Author : Bonnie Tsui
language : en
Publisher: Henry Holt and Company (BYR)
Release Date : 2021-05-11
Sarah And The Big Wave written by Bonnie Tsui and has been published by Henry Holt and Company (BYR) this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 2021-05-11 with Juvenile Nonfiction categories.
This stunning nonfiction picture book tells the inspiring story of Sarah Gerhardt, one of the first female big-wave surfers. Have you ever seen a big wave? One that’s twenty, thirty, forty, even fifty feet tall? Here’s a better question: Would you ever surf a big wave? Sarah Gerhardt did—and this is her story. Sarah and the Big Wave, a tale of perseverance and indomitable spirit, is about the first woman to ride the waves at Mavericks, one of the biggest and most dangerous surf breaks in the world.
The Big Drop
DOWNLOAD
Author : John Long
language : en
Publisher: Falcon Guides
Release Date : 1999
The Big Drop written by John Long and has been published by Falcon Guides this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 1999 with Surfers categories.
A classic collection of big wave surfing stories that heralded a new era in surfing literature--32 tantalizing and terrifying true tales from the sport's pioneers
Big Juice
DOWNLOAD
Author : John Long
language : en
Publisher: Rowman & Littlefield
Release Date : 2011-11-08
Big Juice written by John Long and has been published by Rowman & Littlefield this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 2011-11-08 with Sports & Recreation categories.
The best and newest big-wave surfing stories from the sport’s insiders More than a decade ago, John Long published his now classic The Big Drop, an unprecedented look at the larger-than-life frontier of big wave surfing. Since then, the sport has exploded in popularity. The big wave bar keeps rising as extreme surfers continue to seek out, surf, and survive a ride on the elusive 100-foot wave. The incredible stories of a new generation of thrill-seeking, death-defying surfers and stunning, full-color photography of monster waves fill the pages of this new collection by John Long and former surfing pro Sam George. A powerful, contemporary look at the men and women who live and breathe for the next big wave and the bigger, more dangerous challenge, The Big Juice presents a rich history of characters, controversies, heroism, humor, and tragedy that define the sport. With contributions from: - Ben Marcus, author of The Surfing Handbook and The Art of Stand Up Paddling - Chris Dixon, writer, Surfer magazine - Kimball Taylor, writer, ESPN - Bruce Jenkins, author of North Shore Chronicles; writer, Sports Illustrated - Drew Kampion, former editor of Surfer, Surfing, Wind Surf, and Wind Tracks magazines; author of The Book of Waves: Form and Beauty on the Ocean - James Hollmer-Cross, writer, Surfing magazine . . . and big-wave surfers: - Laird Hamilton - Dave Kalama - Evan Slater - Shane Dorian - Greg Noll- and more
Big Wave Surfing
DOWNLOAD
Author : Jim Buckley
language : en
Publisher: Carson-Dellosa Publishing
Release Date : 2018-11-30
Big Wave Surfing written by Jim Buckley and has been published by Carson-Dellosa Publishing this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 2018-11-30 with Juvenile Nonfiction categories.
You want intense? How about a mountain of water as high as a building? The world’s greatest big wave surfers face that challenge and conquer whatever the ocean can throw at them! Find out how big wave surfing started, meet the top wave riders, and learn how these daring athletes conquer the world’s biggest waves! This title will allow students to explain events, procedures, ideas, or concepts in a historical, scientific, or technical text, including what happened and why, based on specific information in the text. • Profiles of athletes • Text based questions • Bolded keywords
The Finest Line
DOWNLOAD
Author : Rusty Long
language : en
Publisher: Insight Editions
Release Date : 2015-04-14
The Finest Line written by Rusty Long and has been published by Insight Editions this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 2015-04-14 with Sports & Recreation categories.
The Finest Line explores the world of big-wave surfing and it’s dynamic evolution. Through images of hallmark days from the best big-wave locations around the world, firsthand accounts from those who dedicate their lives to chasing and riding giant waves, and expert commentary about the treacherous characteristics of each location, The Finest Line offers an unprecedented glimpse into the psychology of big-wave surfing, as well as its extreme risks and unparalleled rewards. Big-wave surfing has long been a part of the sport, but this subculture of the surf world is now moving out of the fringes. The current generation of surfers is continually reinventing the limits, making this the most advanced, dynamic, and exciting period in big-wave surfing history. This stunning coffee table book captures the essence of the sport through breathtaking images and stories, as well as exclusive interviews with the surfers who play the starring roles during these rare, large-swell events. Here you discover the complex logistics behind staging missions to the Cortes Bank, a phantom reef 100 miles out to sea; the mental and physical regimens of surfers such as Shane Dorian, Greg Long, and Grant “Twiggy” Baker; the psychology of living in pursuit of the world’s meanest waves; the stories behind the paddle-in renaissance that has come to define the next level of big-wave surfing; and firsthand accounts of those now-rare “tow-only” days that captivate audiences worldwide. More than a collection of big-wave photographs, The Finest Line covers the giant, hallmark sessions from the most impressive spots around the globe, capturing the international flavor of the sport and exploring the insatiable drive of a rare breed of thrill seekers.
Dangerous Fun
DOWNLOAD
Author : Ugo Corte
language : en
Publisher: University of Chicago Press
Release Date : 2022-06-20
Dangerous Fun written by Ugo Corte and has been published by University of Chicago Press this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 2022-06-20 with Social Science categories.
A thrilling ethnography of big wave surfing in Hawaii that explores the sociology of fun. Straight from the beaches of Hawaii comes an exciting new ethnography of a community of big-wave surfers. Oahu’s Waimea Bay attracts the world’s best big wave surfers—men and women who come to test their physical strength, courage, style, knowledge of the water, and love of the ocean. Sociologist Ugo Corte sees their fun as the outcome of social interaction within a community. Both as participant and observer, he examines how mentors, novices, and peers interact to create episodes of collective fun in a dangerous setting; how they push one another’s limits, nourish a lifestyle, advance the sport and, in some cases, make a living based on their passion for the sport. In Dangerous Fun, Corte traces how surfers earn and maintain a reputation within the field, and how, as innovations are introduced, and as they progress, establish themselves and age, they modify their strategies for maximizing performance and limiting chances of failure. Corte argues that fun is a social phenomenon, a pathway to solidarity rooted in the delight in actualizing the self within a social world. It is a form of group cohesion achieved through shared participation in risky interactions with uncertain outcomes. Ultimately, Corte provides an understanding of collective effervescence, emotional energy, and the interaction rituals leading to fateful moments—moments of decision that, once made, transform one’s self-concept irrevocably.
North Shore Chronicles
DOWNLOAD
Author : Bruce Jenkins
language : en
Publisher: Frog Books
Release Date : 2005-08-05
North Shore Chronicles written by Bruce Jenkins and has been published by Frog Books this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 2005-08-05 with Sports & Recreation categories.
In this memorable account of 17 trips he made to Hawaii's North Shore starting in 1974, Bruce Jenkins, considered the Kerouac of surf writers, profiles the area's elite, the superstars who live to conquer Hawaii's deadliest waves. Here are the egoists, stylists, gladiators, and purists of the sport, from big-wave greats Darrick Doerner and Mark Foo to bodysurfer Mark Cunningham and bodyboarder Mike Stewart. Features 77 color photos.
Nazar
DOWNLOAD
Author : Matt Majendie
language : en
Publisher: Hachette UK
Release Date : 2023-05-11
Nazar written by Matt Majendie and has been published by Hachette UK this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 2023-05-11 with Sports & Recreation categories.
LONGLISTED FOR THE 2023 WILLIAM HILL SPORTS BOOK OF THE YEAR JOIN THE QUEST TO SURF THE BIGGEST WAVE IN HISTORY. In a small fishing village on the coast of Portugal, a select band of surfers take unimaginable risks, pushing the boundaries of their death-defying sport as they seek to go bigger than ever before. Their goal? To ride the Everest of the ocean - the 100-foot wave. Sports journalist Matt Majendie is welcomed into the inner circle of Nazaré's tight community of big-wave surfers and extreme thrill-seekers, living among them for a season as he chronicles their incredible highs and terrifying lows. Follow the endeavours of Britain's leading big-wave surfer, a former plumber from Devon, Andrew Cotton; trailblazing Brazilian female surfer Maya Gabeira; current World Record holder German Sebastian Steudtner; Portuguese Nic von Rupp and jet-ski driver Sérgio Cosme, nicknamed 'the Guardian Angel of Nazaré' for his daring rescues, in this gripping read.