Surfing And The Meaning Of Life
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Surfing And The Meaning Of Life
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Author : Ben Marcus
language : en
Publisher: Voyageur Press (MN)
Release Date : 2006
Surfing And The Meaning Of Life written by Ben Marcus and has been published by Voyageur Press (MN) this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 2006 with Sports & Recreation categories.
Ninety full-color and black-and-white photographs, along with reflections, observations, wit, and wisdom by some of the sport's leading practitioners, including Miki Dora, Greg Noll, Kelly Slater, and Laird Hamilton, capture the culture of surfing.
Surfing And The Meaning Of Life
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Author : Ben Marcus
language : en
Publisher:
Release Date :
Surfing And The Meaning Of Life written by Ben Marcus and has been published by this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on with Surfers categories.
All sports have their cultures, but surfing alone seems to have created a whole style-even a philosophy-of life. In this book, wit and wisdom and living for the wave come together to point the way to the ride of your life-or at least an enjoyable read. With the words of sages of the surf as unlikely as Mark Twain and Jack London and as close to the heart of the sport as Miki Dora, Greg Noll, Nat Young, Kelly Slater, and Laird Hamilton-and with photographs that capture the thrill of the ride-this book explains the meaning of life as only surfers can understand it. And because, as Brock Little remarks in Fade to Black, "Adrenaline is a funny drug," a book about surfing must have its dose of humor-and this one does, along with surfings undeniable rush. The perfect philosophy gift book for the true surfer. "If you accept all the doctrines of society, you'll never be a surfer."-Nat Young
Surfing With Sartre
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Author : Aaron James
language : en
Publisher: National Geographic Books
Release Date : 2018-05-01
Surfing With Sartre written by Aaron James and has been published by National Geographic Books this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 2018-05-01 with Philosophy categories.
Jean-Paul Sartre once declared waterskiing to be “the ideal limit of aquatic sports.” Aaron James, who is both an avid surfer and a professor of philosophy, vigorously disagrees. In these pages, he presents his surfer’s worldview as a foil to Sartre’s, along the way elucidating such philosophical categories as freedom, being, phenomenology, morality, epistemology, and even the emerging values of what he terms “leisure capitalism.” In developing his unique surfer’s philosophy, he draws from surf culture and lingo—and engages with philosophers from Aristotle to Wittgenstein. In the process, he speaks to those of us in search of personal and social meaning—particularly in our current anxious moment—by way of real, authentic philosophy. In or out of the water.
Surfing With Sartre
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Author : Aaron James
language : en
Publisher: Anchor
Release Date : 2018-05-01
Surfing With Sartre written by Aaron James and has been published by Anchor this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 2018-05-01 with Philosophy categories.
Jean-Paul Sartre once declared waterskiing to be “the ideal limit of aquatic sports.” Aaron James, who is both an avid surfer and a professor of philosophy, vigorously disagrees. In these pages, he presents his surfer’s worldview as a foil to Sartre’s, along the way elucidating such philosophical categories as freedom, being, phenomenology, morality, epistemology, and even the emerging values of what he terms “leisure capitalism.” In developing his unique surfer’s philosophy, he draws from surf culture and lingo—and engages with philosophers from Aristotle to Wittgenstein. In the process, he speaks to those of us in search of personal and social meaning—particularly in our current anxious moment—by way of real, authentic philosophy. In or out of the water.
The Surfing Handbook
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Author : Ben Marcus
language : en
Publisher: MVP Books
Release Date : 2010-06-13
The Surfing Handbook written by Ben Marcus and has been published by MVP Books this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 2010-06-13 with Sports & Recreation categories.
Whether you’re a beginner trying to get started or an experienced surfer looking to take it to the next level, The Surfing Handbook gives you the tips you need to maximize your performance on the water, with guidance on training and conditioning, technique and style, safety and etiquette, and gear. Written by veteran pro surfing journalist Ben Marcus, this guide is illustrated with instructional photos and drawings, providing step-by-step instructions, background history—as well as stories and tips from legendary surfers and teachers—making this an informative and entertaining guide that will help you to master the waves.
Surfing
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Author : Benjamin Marcus
language : en
Publisher: MVP Books
Release Date : 2013-03-05
Surfing written by Benjamin Marcus and has been published by MVP Books this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 2013-03-05 with Sports & Recreation categories.
Surfing enthusiast Ben Marcus takes you as close to the waves as you can get without hitting the beach. Surfing is more than just a sport; it is a cultural phenomenon. From its mystical beginnings in Polynesia, surfing has evolved into a worldwide passion, establishing its own roster of legends and seeping into our society—in movies, in fashion, in music, and in language. Hawaiian Duke Kahanamoku, the “father of surfing,” helped elevate the sport beyond its Pacific Islands origins more than a century ago, and his torch has been carried on by a long line of surf heroes: Woody Brown, Mickey Dora, Laird Hamilton, Kelly Slater, and many, many others. During the 1950s and 1960s, surf culture and fashion exploded into movies and music. “Gidget,” the Beach Boys, and even Elvis Presley exposed surfing to the masses, and decades later, the sport and its proponents remain fixtures in pop culture and the media. Yet, through the years, surfing has maintained its reputation as a refuge for non-conformists; its often below-the-radar individualistic lifestyle defies a dry chronicle neatly tied up with a bow. In this comprehensive history of surfing, author Ben Marcus captures the glamour and excitement of this extreme sport. If you are still in awe of that first surfboard, still stoked by hanging ten, or still dreaming of that elusive wave, then this book is for you. Surfing: An Illustrated History of the Coolest Sport of All Time brings you up close and personal to the exciting world of surfing.
Barbarian Days
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Author : William Finnegan
language : en
Publisher: Hachette UK
Release Date : 2015-08-06
Barbarian Days written by William Finnegan and has been published by Hachette UK this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 2015-08-06 with Biography & Autobiography categories.
Winner of the Pulitzer Price and William Hill Sports Book of the Year: Barbarian Days is a deeply rendered self-portrait of a lifelong surfer looking for transcendence 'that recalls early James Salter' (Geoff Dyer, Observer) Surfing only looks like a sport. To devotees, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a mental and physical study, a passionate way of life. New Yorker writer William Finnegan first started surfing as a young boy in California and Hawaii. Barbarian Days is his immersive memoir of a life spent travelling the world chasing waves through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa and beyond. Finnegan describes the edgy yet enduring brotherhood forged among the swell of the surf; and recalling his own apprenticeship to the world's most famous and challenging waves, he considers the intense relationship formed between man, board and water. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, a social history, an extraordinary exploration of one man's gradual mastering of an exacting and little-understood art. It is a memoir of dangerous obsession and enchantment. 'Reading this guy on the subject of waves and water is like reading Hemingway on bullfighting; William Burroughs on controlled substances; Updike on adultery. . . . a coming-of-age story, seen through the gloss resin coat of a surfboard' Sports Illustrated
The Surfboard
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Author : Ben Marcus
language : en
Publisher: MVP Books
Release Date : 2007-05-15
The Surfboard written by Ben Marcus and has been published by MVP Books this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 2007-05-15 with Sports & Recreation categories.
The history of the surfboard is one of innovation---innovation that has in turn shaped the sport of surfing. The Art of the Surfboard follows this history, from the first "wave-riding" redwood planks crafted by ancient Hawaiians to the vacuum-sealed, lightweight, "plastic fantastic" technological marvels of today. Beautifully illustrated with historical prints and engravings, as well as the latest surf photography and detailed closeups, this book documents the surfboards evolution as a perfect convergence of form and function.
Deep In The Wave
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Author : Bear Woznick
language : en
Publisher: Center Street
Release Date : 2012-07-10
Deep In The Wave written by Bear Woznick and has been published by Center Street this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 2012-07-10 with Self-Help categories.
For world-class surfer Bear Woznick, the ocean has always been the center of his universe. He's spent his entire life with it; riding its waves, learning from it, loving it. The ocean also nourishes the soul as Bear shows us on his surfboard. In DEEP IN THE WAVE, readers ride along with Woznick through the calmest of tides and most turbulent waves. Woznick's portrayal of the beauty and power of the ocean is truly inspiring and showcases the profound meaning surfing has had on his life. From the way a surfboard is painstakingly crafted, to the faith and patience that is required to ride a monster wave, Woznick weaves his relationship to surfing with his relationship to God, relating how the two are often one in the same. Instead of standing on the shore with our toes in the surf, Woznick takes us on the board--to the deep water--to watch and wait--and, if need be, to paddle hard to survive.
Rockaway
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Author : Diane Cardwell
language : en
Publisher: Houghton Mifflin
Release Date : 2020
Rockaway written by Diane Cardwell and has been published by Houghton Mifflin this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 2020 with Biography & Autobiography categories.
The inspirational story of one woman learning to surf and creating a new life in gritty, eccentric Rockaway Beach Unmoored by a failed marriage and disconnected from her high-octane life in the city, Diane Cardwell finds herself staring at a small group of surfers coasting through mellow waves toward shore--and senses something shift. Rockawayis the riveting, joyful story of one woman's reinvention--beginning with Cardwell taking the A Train to Rockaway, a neglected spit of land dangling off New York City into the Atlantic Ocean. She finds a teacher, buys a tiny bungalow, and throws her not-overly-athletic self headlong into learning the inner workings and rhythms of waves and the muscle development and coordination needed to ride them. As Cardwell begins to find her balance in the water and out, superstorm Sandy hits, sending her into the maelstrom in search of safer ground. In the aftermath, the community comes together and rebuilds, rekindling its bacchanalian spirit as a historic surfing community, one with its own quirky codes and surf culture. And Cardwell's surfing takes off as she finds a true home among her fellow passionate longboarders at the Rockaway Beach Surf Club, living out "the most joyful path through life." Rockawayis a stirring story of inner salvation sought through a challenging physical pursuit--and of learning to accept the idea of a complete reset, no matter when in life it comes.