Surfing Life


Surfing Life
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Surfing Life


Surfing Life
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Author : Mark Stranger
language : en
Publisher: Routledge
Release Date : 2017-03-02

Surfing Life written by Mark Stranger and has been published by Routledge this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 2017-03-02 with Sports & Recreation categories.


Surfing Life is a study of surfing and social change that also provides insights into other experience-based contemporary subcultures and the nature of the self and social formations in contemporary society. Making use of extensive empirical material to support innovative theoretical approaches to social change, this book offers an analysis of the relationship between embodied experience, culture and the economy. With its ground breaking theoretical contributions, and its foundation in an ethnographic study of surfing culture in locations across Australia, this volume will appeal not only to those interested in the social and cultural phenomenon of surfing, but also to anyone interested in the sociology of sport and leisure, the sociology of culture and consumption, risk-taking, subcultures and theories of contemporary social change.



Surf For Your Life


Surf For Your Life
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Author : Mick Fanning
language : en
Publisher: Random House Australia
Release Date : 2011

Surf For Your Life written by Mick Fanning and has been published by Random House Australia this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 2011 with Biography & Autobiography categories.


Mick Fanning might only be 28 but he already knows how a lot of things feel that most of us never will. Mick has overcome personal tragedy and career-threatening injury on his way to claiming the 2007 world surfing title. Mick tells his life story candidly - in turns funny, sensitive, thoughtful, self-deprecating - while providing intimate insights into the personal lessons gained along the way - with practical tips on surfing technique, fitness, nutrition, board design, travel, competitive strategies and mental clarity. Universally acknowledged as the most focused and driven competitive surfer of his era, Mick's approach to surfing, sports psychology, life and relationships, makes fascinating reading.



Surf Life


Surf Life
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Author :
language : en
Publisher:
Release Date : 2023

Surf Life written by and has been published by this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 2023 with categories.




Barbarian Days


Barbarian Days
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Author : William Finnegan
language : en
Publisher: Hachette UK
Release Date : 2015-08-06

Barbarian Days written by William Finnegan and has been published by Hachette UK this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 2015-08-06 with Biography & Autobiography categories.


Winner of the Pulitzer Price and William Hill Sports Book of the Year: Barbarian Days is a deeply rendered self-portrait of a lifelong surfer looking for transcendence 'that recalls early James Salter' (Geoff Dyer, Observer) Surfing only looks like a sport. To devotees, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a mental and physical study, a passionate way of life. New Yorker writer William Finnegan first started surfing as a young boy in California and Hawaii. Barbarian Days is his immersive memoir of a life spent travelling the world chasing waves through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa and beyond. Finnegan describes the edgy yet enduring brotherhood forged among the swell of the surf; and recalling his own apprenticeship to the world's most famous and challenging waves, he considers the intense relationship formed between man, board and water. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, a social history, an extraordinary exploration of one man's gradual mastering of an exacting and little-understood art. It is a memoir of dangerous obsession and enchantment. 'Reading this guy on the subject of waves and water is like reading Hemingway on bullfighting; William Burroughs on controlled substances; Updike on adultery. . . . a coming-of-age story, seen through the gloss resin coat of a surfboard' Sports Illustrated



The Lost Coast Pb


The Lost Coast Pb
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Author : Drew Kampion
language : en
Publisher: Gibbs Smith
Release Date : 2009-09

The Lost Coast Pb written by Drew Kampion and has been published by Gibbs Smith this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 2009-09 with Fiction categories.


Surfers read the patterns of the sea like others read a book. For them, the organization of swells and currents and the curling folds of the waves are elements of a natural language, as coherent in structure and meaning as any taught in school. Each of the eighteen stories in this collection is a raw glimpse of surf life-from sliding into cold, stiff neoprene to experiencing the ecstasy of the Pure Art of Surfing. Most previously published in magazines over the past thirty-five years, the stories in this collection capture the movement, mythology, fantasy, and philosophy of surf life and culture on the sweet and ragged wild edge of beauty.



High Surf


High Surf
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Author : Tim Baker
language : en
Publisher: HarperCollins Australia
Release Date : 2010-06-01

High Surf written by Tim Baker and has been published by HarperCollins Australia this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 2010-06-01 with Sports & Recreation categories.


Inspiring stories from an eclectic cast of surfers 'tim Baker may well be the most brilliant and incisive surf writer working today, or on any givenday for the last twenty years.' worldprosurfers.com Leading surf journalist tim Baker has profiled the surfing world's most inspiring characters, encountered over two decades of surf writing, to highlight the life lessons and boundless inspiration to be gained from a lifestyle built around waveriding. From salty old surf legends to modern pro-surf stars, to surfers from all walks of life - writers, musicians, aid workers, ethicists - the common theme in all these surfers' lives is how their personal journeys have been shaped and informed by their experiences in the ocean. 'I think one of the most powerful outcomes of surfing is how it creates community and shared experiences across all sections of society. Surfing is a lingua franca of nature. Even dolphins and other sea creatures surf.' Vezen Wu, scientist 'Just the feeling of the water on you, diving and paddling, duck-diving your first wave, seeing a set come, turning around and stroking into it, that initial rush as you drop down the face, the jolts of acceleration as you go through the manoeuvres - there's nothing like it. the only thing that actually comes close to riding waves is sex.' Mark Richards, four-time world surfing champion 5% of author royalties from this book will be distributed to the following charities: Surf Aid International; Disabled Surfers Association; Life Rolls On; Surfers Healing; Surfrider Foundation



Surfing Life Waves Russian Edition


Surfing Life Waves Russian Edition
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Author : Bradley Hook
language : ru
Publisher: inHorizon Media
Release Date : 2013-12

Surfing Life Waves Russian Edition written by Bradley Hook and has been published by inHorizon Media this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 2013-12 with categories.


Surfing Life Waves (in Russian) explores using surfing as a philosophy for living life. The book features beautiful surf photography and takes the reader through various stages of the surfing experience, from paddling out to catching the ultimate wave. It is the perfect book for anyone who loves the ocean lifestyle. There are waves of opportunity for happiness, success, love, failure and adventure all around us. Using the approach of the surfer you will learn how you can make the most of the waves that crash into your life.



Surfer Girl


Surfer Girl
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Author : Sanoe Lake
language : en
Publisher: Little Brown & Company
Release Date : 2005

Surfer Girl written by Sanoe Lake and has been published by Little Brown & Company this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 2005 with Juvenile Fiction categories.


Discusses the basics of surfing for teenage girls, including equipment, safety, practical surfing attire, and fundamental surfing moves.



House Inside The Waves


House Inside The Waves
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Author : Richard Taylor
language : en
Publisher: Dundurn
Release Date : 2002-07-16

House Inside The Waves written by Richard Taylor and has been published by Dundurn this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 2002-07-16 with Travel categories.


In an era of packaged paradises and cyber surfers, Taylors mid-life blues seduced him into recapturing his youthful romance with surfing.



Surfing Life Waves


Surfing Life Waves
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Author : Bradley Hook
language : en
Publisher:
Release Date : 2012-12

Surfing Life Waves written by Bradley Hook and has been published by this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 2012-12 with Self-actualization (Psychology) categories.


We are surrounded by waves: from light, sound, electrical and micro waves through to the quantum waves that underpin our reality. Amidst all this wave activity it's easy to draw a comparison between the physical waves we know so well and the experiential waves - or opportunities - that colour our existence. Waves of opportunity for happiness, success, love, failure, adventure and a spectrum of enriching experiences swirl constantly around us. The approach of the surfer - arguably the world's foremost experts in waves - provides a metaphor for embracing your life waves with passion, commitment, detachment, flow and fun. There are waves breaking everywhere. How you choose to find and ride them is up to you.