The Kinematics Of Breaking Waves In The Surf Zone
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The Kinematics Of Breaking Waves In The Surf Zone
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Author : Alfred James Olsen
language : en
Publisher:
Release Date : 1977
The Kinematics Of Breaking Waves In The Surf Zone written by Alfred James Olsen and has been published by this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 1977 with Kinematics categories.
Simultaneous measurements of sea surface elevation and onshore and alongshore water particle velocities were measured at three locations within the surf zone using two capacitance type penetrating wave staffs and three two-component electromagnetic flow meters. The probability density functions, pdf, for the sea surface elevation were always highly positively skewed, whereas the pdf's for the velocities were both negatively and positively skewed. Mean values of the onshore and alongshore components of flow reflected the influence of a rip current frequently observed just south of the instrument locations. Strong harmonics in the spectra of sea surface fluctuations and particle velocities infer nonlinear conditions. Coherence values between waves and onshore flow were high, ranging above 0.9. The coherence between waves and onshore flow was used to separate the turbulence and wave-induced velocity components. Over the range of collapsing to spilling breakers a reasonable value for the ratio of turbulent to wave-induced velocity was determined to be approximately 0.75. Saturation regions were found in the wave and velocity energy-density spectra at higher frequencies as evidenced by -5 and -3 slopes, respectively. (Author).
The Kinematics Of Water Particle Velocities Of Breaking Waves Within The Surf Zone
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Author : Edward B. Thornton
language : en
Publisher:
Release Date : 1973
The Kinematics Of Water Particle Velocities Of Breaking Waves Within The Surf Zone written by Edward B. Thornton and has been published by this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 1973 with Hydrodynamics categories.
Simultaneous measurements of waves, and vertical and horizontal water particle velocities were made at the breaker-line within the surf zone using a capacitance type penetrating wave staff, a pressure wave gauge, and an electromagnetic current meter. Wave measurements were also made at seaward and shoreward locations. The wave energy-density spectral components were converted to velocity spectral components using linear wave theory. These computed values compared well qualitatively with the measured velocity spectra. Quantitatively, the results showed that linear theory underpredicted wave-induced horizontal velocity spectral components by about 50 percent at the frequency of peak energy. Probability density functions were computed and compared to Gaussian and Gram-Charlier distributions using the chi-square goodness-of-fit test. The Gram-Charlier distribution qualitatively gave the better fit to the data. (Modified author abstract).
Kinematics Of Water Particle Motion Within The Surf Zone
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Author : Rafael Steer
language : en
Publisher:
Release Date : 1972
Kinematics Of Water Particle Motion Within The Surf Zone written by Rafael Steer and has been published by this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 1972 with Hydrodynamics categories.
The objective of this research was to make preliminary studies on the kinematics of the water particle motion within the surf zone and within breaking waves. Simultaneous measurements were made of the instantaneous sea surface elevation and of horizontal and vertical particle velocities at different elevations in the same column of water in the surf zone, and of the offshore sea surface elevation. The probability density functions and spectra of the wave and particle velocity measurements were determined.
Surf Zone Wave Kinematics
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Author : Frank Lee Bub
language : en
Publisher:
Release Date : 1974
Surf Zone Wave Kinematics written by Frank Lee Bub and has been published by this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 1974 with Kinematics categories.
The experiment was designed to measure surface profiles and water velocities in the breaker zone and compare the results with present theory. As a secondary objective the accuracy and usefulness of capacitance wave gages and electromagnetic flow meters in the surf environment were evaluated.
Kinematics And Directionality Of Waves In The Surf Zone
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Author : J. van Heteren
language : en
Publisher:
Release Date : 1985
Kinematics And Directionality Of Waves In The Surf Zone written by J. van Heteren and has been published by this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 1985 with Coast changes categories.
Kinematics And Dynamics Of Breaking Waves
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Author : Søren Peter Kjeldsen
language : en
Publisher:
Release Date : 1978
Kinematics And Dynamics Of Breaking Waves written by Søren Peter Kjeldsen and has been published by this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 1978 with Ocean waves categories.
Irregular Wave Kinematics In The Surf Zone
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Author : Nels John Sultan
language : en
Publisher:
Release Date : 1995
Irregular Wave Kinematics In The Surf Zone written by Nels John Sultan and has been published by this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 1995 with categories.
Kinematics Of Breaking Waves In The Surf Zone
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Author : Victor Sandiford Hultstrand
language : en
Publisher:
Release Date : 1977
Kinematics Of Breaking Waves In The Surf Zone written by Victor Sandiford Hultstrand and has been published by this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 1977 with Kinematics categories.
Measurements were made of the water level fluctuations and horizontal water particle velocities in breaking waves. The breaking waves were identified and classified. The mean value of the height of breaking to depth of breaking was calculated and found to be 0.86 for a composite of the waves measured; the mean ratio values for collapsing, plunging and spilling were 0.84, 0.87 and 0.90, respectively. Probability distributions were plotted for wave heights and horizontal velocities and qualitatively compared with Rayleigh distributions; the wave distributions fit well but velocity did not. The spectra of wave profile and horizontal velocity were calculated and indicated a narrow banded data set. The coherence values between horizontal water particle velocities and wave profile were generally high, indicating that the horizontal particle velocities measured were highly wave-induced. The phase shift at the peak energy frequency was about 40 deg which suggested the presence of reflected waves. (Author).
Wave Transformation In The Surf Zone
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Author : William R. Dally
language : en
Publisher:
Release Date : 1987
Wave Transformation In The Surf Zone written by William R. Dally and has been published by this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 1987 with Water waves categories.
The random wave model is verified to field data and good agreement is obtained for both statistically representative waves and histograms, without additional calibration. The effect of a collinear current on the breaking process of regular waves is then investigated theoretically and experimentally. A governing equation is proposed and verified to the laboratory data with good results, except for the combination of a short-period wave and a strong opposing current. The effects of long waves such as surf beat (which can be depicted as a slowly varying current and mean water level) on the transformation of random wind-waves is investigated by incorporating the results of the regular wave/current study. If no correlation between the wind-wave group and the surf beat is assumed, only a slight (~ 4%) increase in decay of the root mean square wave height, Hrmg , is observed.
Wave Kinematics And Environmental Forces
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Author : Society for Underwater Technology (SUT)
language : en
Publisher: Springer Science & Business Media
Release Date : 2013-03-14
Wave Kinematics And Environmental Forces written by Society for Underwater Technology (SUT) and has been published by Springer Science & Business Media this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 2013-03-14 with Technology & Engineering categories.
In determining the response of offshore structures, it is of utmost importance to determine, in the most correct manner, all factors which contribute to the total force acting on these structures. Applying the Morison formula (Morison et. al. , 1950) to calculate forces on offshore slender structures, uncertainties related to the understanding of the wave climate, the hydrodynamic force coefficients and the kinematics of ocean waves represent the most important contributions to the uncertainties in the prediction of the total forces on these structures (Haver and Gudmestad, 1992). Traditional calculation of forces on offshore structures involves the use of regular waves with the following non-linearities inco1porated use of regular wave theories inco1porating higher order terms use of Morison equation having a nonlinear drag term inclusion of the effect of the free surface by integrating all contributions to total forces and moments from the sea floor to the free surface of the waves In order to describe the sea more realistically, the ocean surface is to be described as an irregular sea surface represented by its energy spectrum. The associated decomposition of the sea surface is given as a linear sum of linear waves. The total force is found by integrating the contribution from all components in the wave spectrum to the free surface. The kinematics of each component must therefore be determined.