Breaking And Dissipation Of Ocean Surface Waves

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Breaking And Dissipation Of Ocean Surface Waves
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Author : Alexander Babanin
language : en
Publisher: Cambridge University Press
Release Date : 2011-05-19
Breaking And Dissipation Of Ocean Surface Waves written by Alexander Babanin and has been published by Cambridge University Press this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 2011-05-19 with Science categories.
Wave breaking represents one of the most interesting and challenging problems for fluid mechanics and physical oceanography. Over the last fifteen years our understanding has undergone a dramatic leap forward, and wave breaking has emerged as a process whose physics is clarified and quantified. Ocean wave breaking plays the primary role in the air-sea exchange of momentum, mass and heat, and it is of significant importance for ocean remote sensing, coastal and ocean engineering, navigation and other practical applications. This book outlines the state of the art in our understanding of wave breaking and presents the main outstanding problems. It is a valuable resource for anyone interested in this topic, including researchers, modellers, forecasters, engineers and graduate students in physical oceanography, meteorology and ocean engineering.
Breaking And Dissipation Of Ocean Surface Waves
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Author : Alexander V. Babanin
language : en
Publisher:
Release Date : 2014-05-14
Breaking And Dissipation Of Ocean Surface Waves written by Alexander V. Babanin and has been published by this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 2014-05-14 with NATURE categories.
Outlines the state of the art in our understanding of wave breaking for researchers, modellers, engineers and graduate students in oceanography, meteorology and ocean engineering.
Ocean Surface Waves
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Author : Stanislaw R. Massel
language : en
Publisher: World Scientific
Release Date : 1996
Ocean Surface Waves written by Stanislaw R. Massel and has been published by World Scientific this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 1996 with Science categories.
This book is intended as a handbook for professionals and researchers in the areas of Physical Oceanography, Ocean and Coastal Engineering and as a text for graduate students in these fields. It presents a comprehensive study on surface ocean waves induced by wind, including basic mathematical principles, physical description of the observed phenomena, practical forecasting techniques of various wave parameters and applications in ocean and coastal engineering, all from the probabilistic and spectral points of view. The book commences with a description of mechanisms of surface wave generation by wind and its modern modeling techniques. The stochastic and probabilistic terminology is introduced and the basic statistical and spectral properties of ocean waves are developed and discussed in detail. The bulk of material deals with the prediction techniques for waves in deep and coastal waters for simple and complex ocean basins and complex bathymetry. The various prediction methods, currently used in oceanography and ocean engineering, are described and the examples of practical calculations illustrate the basic text. An appendix provides a description of the modern methods of wave measurement, including the remote sensing techniques. Also the wave simulation methods and random data analysis techniques are discussed. In the book a lot of discoveries of the Russian and East European scientists, largely unknown in the Western literature due to the language barrier, are referred to.
The Interaction Of Ocean Waves And Wind
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Author : Peter Janssen
language : en
Publisher: Cambridge University Press
Release Date : 2004-10-28
The Interaction Of Ocean Waves And Wind written by Peter Janssen and has been published by Cambridge University Press this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 2004-10-28 with Science categories.
This book was published in 2004. The Interaction of Ocean Waves and Wind describes in detail the two-way interaction between wind and ocean waves and shows how ocean waves affect weather forecasting on timescales of 5 to 90 days. Winds generate ocean waves, but at the same time airflow is modified due to the loss of energy and momentum to the waves; thus, momentum loss from the atmosphere to the ocean depends on the state of the waves. This volume discusses ocean wave evolution according to the energy balance equation. An extensive overview of nonlinear transfer is given, and as a by-product the role of four-wave interactions in the generation of extreme events, such as freak waves, is discussed. Effects on ocean circulation are described. Coupled ocean-wave, atmosphere modelling gives improved weather and wave forecasts. This volume will interest ocean wave modellers, physicists and applied mathematicians, and engineers interested in shipping and coastal protection.
Ocean Surface Waves
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Author : Stanislaw R. Massel
language : en
Publisher: World Scientific
Release Date : 2013
Ocean Surface Waves written by Stanislaw R. Massel and has been published by World Scientific this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 2013 with Science categories.
The book contains a comprehensive study on surface ocean waves induced by wind, earthquakes, and possibly landslides and asteroids impacts. Basic mathematical principles, physical description of the observed phenomena, practical forecasting techniques of the various wave parameters and extended application in ocean and coastal engineering, are discussed from the stochastic point of view. New topics include wave breaking mechanisms in deep- and shallow water, and freak waves.
Ocean Waves
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Author : Michel K. Ochi
language : en
Publisher: Cambridge University Press
Release Date : 1998-03-28
Ocean Waves written by Michel K. Ochi and has been published by Cambridge University Press this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 1998-03-28 with Science categories.
Describes the stochastic method for ocean wave analysis - vital information for design and operation of ships.
Ocean Surface Waves Their Physics And Prediction Third Edition
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Author : Stanislaw Ryszard Massel
language : en
Publisher: World Scientific
Release Date : 2017-09-28
Ocean Surface Waves Their Physics And Prediction Third Edition written by Stanislaw Ryszard Massel and has been published by World Scientific this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 2017-09-28 with Technology & Engineering categories.
This book is an extended and substantially updated edition of the previous book editions published in 1996 and 2013 under the same title. The 3rd edition is a one-volume, modern and comprehensive overview of the current knowledge of regular and random ocean surface waves in deep waters and in coastal zones.Since the previous editions many new theoretical advances have been made in the physical understanding and analytical and numerical treatment of various ocean wave problems. The revisions and supplements demanded by these advances have been substantial, therefore the scope of the book has been extended by adding a new chapter and substantially supplementing others.All chapters of the book have been rewritten to include and describe in detail many new discoveries made since the completion of the previous editions. In this 3rd edition a comprehensive and updated overview of the fundamentals of the regular wave mechanics, as well as the spectral and statistical properties of random waves are given. Except for the updated chapters dedicated to tsunami and extreme waves, a new chapter dealing with other types of impulsive waves starting from rest, are also included.The air-sea interaction processes as well as the last improvements in ocean wave modelling and presently available wave prediction models (WAM, WAVEWATCH III, UMWM, NEMO) are thoroughly discussed and their applications are demonstrated. The review of the present ocean observation methods encompasses the modern sea-truthing, as well as applications of data from presently operating marine satellites.In this revised edition, chapters on the behavior of surface waves in the vegetated environments such as coral reef, mangrove forest, seaweed and seagrass areas are substantially extended and updated to include the last discoveries.The explanations in the book are self-contained and detailed enough to capture the interest of the potential readers and to prompt them to explore the research literature. The list of rapidly growing number of the recent papers on the ocean waves has been extended substantially, up to about 900 titles.
Coastal And Estuarine Processes
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Author : Peter Nielsen
language : en
Publisher: World Scientific Publishing Company
Release Date : 2009-04-21
Coastal And Estuarine Processes written by Peter Nielsen and has been published by World Scientific Publishing Company this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 2009-04-21 with Science categories.
This book covers water waves, surf zone hydrodynamics, tides in oceans and estuaries, storm surges, estuarine mixing, basic sediment transport, coastal morphodynamics and coastal groundwater dynamics.It is an introductory treatment, suitable for a first course in coastal and estuarine processes for earth scientists or engineers. Yet, there are substantial amounts of new material that are included, such as the explicit, analytical treatment of transient, forced long waves. Inclusion of this material will in turn strongly enhance the introductory treatment of tsunami, storm surges and surf beat.The treatment of sine wave theory emphasizes expressions which are explicit in the water depth h (using koh instead of kh) so that they can easily be differentiated or integrated with respect to h. This is a major pedagogical advantage because of the enhanced transparency.The treatment of turbulent mixing includes finite mixing length effects which provide an explanation for differential diffusion of different sediment sizes in suspension. The effects of acceleration skewness and boundary layer streaming are also included in the basic sediment transport models.The inclusion of beach groundwater dynamics — including the mechanisms by which waves as well as tides drive groundwater motion — provides a link between the previously unconnected fields of coastal hydraulics and regional groundwater modeling.Serving as a good reference book, it is fully indexed and comprehensively cross referenced. Abundant references to more detailed texts are also provided.
Ocean Dynamics
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Author : Dirk Olbers
language : en
Publisher: Springer Science & Business Media
Release Date : 2012-04-27
Ocean Dynamics written by Dirk Olbers and has been published by Springer Science & Business Media this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 2012-04-27 with Science categories.
Ocean Dynamics’ is a concise introduction to the fundamentals of fluid mechanics, non-equilibrium thermodynamics and the common approximations for geophysical fluid dynamics, presenting a comprehensive approach to large-scale ocean circulation theory. The book is written on the physical and mathematical level of graduate students in theoretical courses of physical oceanography, meteorology and environmental physics. An extensive bibliography and index, extensive side notes and recommendations for further reading, and a comparison with the specific atmospheric physics where applicable, makes this volume also a useful reading for researchers. Each of the four parts of the book – fundamental laws, common approximations, ocean waves, oceanic turbulence and eddies, and selected aspects of ocean dynamics – starts with elementary considerations, blending then classical topics with more advanced developments of fluid mechanics and theoretical oceanography. The last part covers the theory of the global wind-driven circulation in homogeneous and stratified regimes, the circulation and overturning in the Southern Ocean, and the global meridional overturning and thermohaline-driven circulation. Emphasis is placed on simple physical models rather than access to extensive numerical results, enabling students to understand and reproduce the complex theory mostly by analytical means. All equations and models are derived in detail and illustrated by numerous figures. The appendix provides short excursions into the mathematical background, such as vector analysis, statistics, and differential equations
Random Seas And Design Of Maritime Structures
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Author : Yoshimi Goda
language : en
Publisher: World Scientific
Release Date : 2000
Random Seas And Design Of Maritime Structures written by Yoshimi Goda and has been published by World Scientific this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 2000 with Technology & Engineering categories.
Random waves are the most important constituent of the sea environment. They make the design of maritime structures quite different from that of structures on land. In this book, the concept of randomness in waves for the design of breakwaters, seawalls, and harbor structures is fully explored for easy comprehension by practicing engineers. Theoretical aspects are also discussed in detail for further studies by graduate students and researchers. Several additions have been made to this second edition, including a new chapter on extreme wave statistics.