The Interaction Of Ocean Waves And Wind
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The Interaction Of Ocean Waves And Wind
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Author : Peter Janssen
language : en
Publisher: Cambridge University Press
Release Date : 2004-10-28
The Interaction Of Ocean Waves And Wind written by Peter Janssen and has been published by Cambridge University Press this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 2004-10-28 with Science categories.
This book was published in 2004. The Interaction of Ocean Waves and Wind describes in detail the two-way interaction between wind and ocean waves and shows how ocean waves affect weather forecasting on timescales of 5 to 90 days. Winds generate ocean waves, but at the same time airflow is modified due to the loss of energy and momentum to the waves; thus, momentum loss from the atmosphere to the ocean depends on the state of the waves. This volume discusses ocean wave evolution according to the energy balance equation. An extensive overview of nonlinear transfer is given, and as a by-product the role of four-wave interactions in the generation of extreme events, such as freak waves, is discussed. Effects on ocean circulation are described. Coupled ocean-wave, atmosphere modelling gives improved weather and wave forecasts. This volume will interest ocean wave modellers, physicists and applied mathematicians, and engineers interested in shipping and coastal protection.
Wind Waves In Oceans
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Author : Igor Lavrenov
language : en
Publisher: Springer Science & Business Media
Release Date : 2013-11-11
Wind Waves In Oceans written by Igor Lavrenov and has been published by Springer Science & Business Media this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 2013-11-11 with Science categories.
The study of sea waves has always been in the focus of mankind's atten tion. This is attributed not only to a desire to understand the behaviour in seas and oceans, but also, it has some practical necessity. Developing up-to date wind wave numerical methods requires detailed mathematical modelling, starting with wave generation, development, propagation and transformation on the surface in different water areas under quasi-stationary conditions, up to a synthesis of climatic features observed under different wave generation conditions in oceans, sea or coastal areas. The present monograph considers wind waves in terms of the most general formulation of the problem as a probable hydrodynamic process with wide spatial variability. It ranges between the global scale of the oceans, whose typical size is comparable with the Earth's radius, to the regional and local scales of the seas, including water areas limited in space with significant current or depth gradients in coastal zones, where waves cease their existence having propagated tens of thousand miles.
Ocean Wave Dynamics
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Author : Ian Young
language : en
Publisher: World Scientific
Release Date : 2020-03-20
Ocean Wave Dynamics written by Ian Young and has been published by World Scientific this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 2020-03-20 with Science categories.
Ocean Wave Dynamics is the most up-to-date book of its kind on the three main processes responsible for the generation and evolution of ocean waves: (i) atmospheric input from the wind, (ii) wave breaking and (iii) nonlinear interactions.Ocean waves are important for many reasons. They are the major environmental impact on in the design of coastal or offshore structures. Ocean waves are also fundamental to the processes of coastal flooding and beach erosion. They will play a major role in storm related coastal flooding which will rise in frequency as a result of sea level rise. Ocean waves are also an important part of the coupled ocean-atmosphere system. They determine the roughness of the ocean surface and hence have an impact on winds, fluxes of energy, gases and heat to the ocean and even the stability of ice sheets.Containing the latest research on ocean waves, it is a valuable resource for an overview of knowledge in this important field.Related Link(s)
Wind Generated Ocean Waves
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Author : I.R. Young
language : en
Publisher: Elsevier
Release Date : 1999-03-23
Wind Generated Ocean Waves written by I.R. Young and has been published by Elsevier this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 1999-03-23 with Science categories.
The goals of wind wave research are relatively well defined: to be able to predict the wind wave field and its effect on the environment. That environment could be natural (beaches, the atmosphere etc.) or imposed by human endeavour (ports, harbours, coastal settlements etc.). Although the goals are similar, the specific requirements of these various fields differ considerably. This book attempts to summarise the current state of this knowledge and to place this understanding into a common frame work. It attempts to take a balanced approach between the pragmatic engineering view of requiring a short term result and the scientific quest for detailed understanding. Thus, it attempts to provide a rigorous description of the physical processes involved as well as practical predictive tools.
Wind Waves
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Author : Blair Kinsman
language : en
Publisher: Courier Corporation
Release Date : 1984-01-01
Wind Waves written by Blair Kinsman and has been published by Courier Corporation this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 1984-01-01 with Science categories.
In this classic study, a renowned student of ocean wave theory examines the data requirements and details of the power spectral analysis required to make the wave revolution intelligible. Although the discussions center on waves, once the techniques are understood, they can be applied to many other areas. After outlining the nature of waves and wave processes and their methods of measurement and classification, the author provides a detailed exploration that relies heavily on mathematical models. Topics include perturbations of irrotational motion, energy considerations, wave generations by wind, and much more. The text is enhanced and clarified by 270 photos, figures, and tables. A helpful bibliography and indexes conclude this indispensable addition to the oceanographer's library.
Ocean Surface Waves Their Physics And Prediction Third Edition
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Author : Massel Stanislaw Ryszard
language : en
Publisher: World Scientific
Release Date : 2017-09-28
Ocean Surface Waves Their Physics And Prediction Third Edition written by Massel Stanislaw Ryszard and has been published by World Scientific this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 2017-09-28 with Science categories.
This book is an extended and substantially updated edition of the previous book editions published in 1996 and 2013 under the same title. The 3rd edition is a one-volume, modern and comprehensive overview of the current knowledge of regular and random ocean surface waves in deep waters and in coastal zones. Since the previous editions many new theoretical advances have been made in the physical understanding and analytical and numerical treatment of various ocean wave problems. The revisions and supplements demanded by these advances have been substantial, therefore the scope of the book has been extended by adding a new chapter and substantially supplementing others. All chapters of the book have been rewritten to include and describe in detail many new discoveries made since the completion of the previous editions. In this 3rd edition a comprehensive and updated overview of the fundamentals of the regular wave mechanics, as well as the spectral and statistical properties of random waves are given. Except for the updated chapters dedicated to tsunami and extreme waves, a new chapter dealing with other types of impulsive waves starting from rest, are also included. The air-sea interaction processes as well as the last improvements in ocean wave modelling and presently available wave prediction models (WAM, WAVEWATCH III, UMWM, NEMO) are thoroughly discussed and their applications are demonstrated. The review of the present ocean observation methods encompasses the modern sea-truthing, as well as applications of data from presently operating marine satellites. In this revised edition, chapters on the behavior of surface waves in the vegetated environments such as coral reef, mangrove forest, seaweed and seagrass areas are substantially extended and updated to include the last discoveries. The explanations in the book are self-contained and detailed enough to capture the interest of the potential readers and to prompt them to explore the research literature. The list of rapidly growing number of the recent papers on the ocean waves has been extended substantially, up to about 900 titles. Contents: IntroductionInteraction of Surface Waves and WindSpectral Properties of Ocean WavesStatistical Properties of Ocean WavesProperties of Breaking WavesPrediction of Waves in Deep WaterPrediction of Waves in Shallow WaterRogue WavesWave Motion Starting from Rest: TsunamiWave Motion Starting from Rest: Other ExamplesWaves at Coral Reefs and IslandsWaves in Vegetated CoastsWave-induced Pressure and Flow in a Porous BottomWave Observations and Long-term StatisticsWave Measurement TechniquesData Processing and Simulation Techniques Readership: Graduate students, professionals and researchers, including marine research specialist, in ocean and coastal engineering and oceanography. Keywords: Ocean Wave Physics;Wave Mathematical Principles;Spectral Analysis of Waves;Statistics of Observed Waves;Wave Numerical Modelling;Waves in Vegetated Coasts;Extreme WavesReview: Key Features: The book presents a comprehensive, broad-scope and modern one-volume study of the ocean surface wavesAll subjects are presented with the aim of demonstrating the close link between ocean physics and wave predictions, as well as ocean engineeringThe book includes recent achievements published in languages other than English, such as Russian and Polish, with very extensive list of references encompassing more than 900 titles
Wind Waves At Se
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Author : Henry Bryant Bigelow
language : en
Publisher:
Release Date : 2012-06-01
Wind Waves At Se written by Henry Bryant Bigelow and has been published by this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 2012-06-01 with categories.
Hydrographic Office Publication, No. 609.
Ocean Surface Waves
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Author : Stanislaw R. Massel
language : en
Publisher: World Scientific Publishing Company
Release Date : 2013
Ocean Surface Waves written by Stanislaw R. Massel and has been published by World Scientific Publishing Company this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 2013 with Ocean waves categories.
1. Introduction. 1.1. Waves in the ocean and their significance. 1.2. Basic assumptions on seawater and wave motion. 1.3. Methods of description of random waves -- 2. Interaction of wind and ocean waves. 2.1. Introduction. 2.2. Airflow over sea surface. 2.3. Similarity laws for wind-induced waves. 2.4. Wave energy balance in spectral form. 2.5. Generation of waves by wind -- 3. Spectral properties of ocean waves. 3.1. Introduction. 3.2. Frequency spectra of ocean waves. 3.3. Dispersion relation for ocean waves. 3.4. Directional spectral functions -- 4. Statistical properties of ocean waves. 4.1. Introduction. 4.2. Surface displacement. 4.3. Surface slopes. 4.4. Wave height. 4.5. Wave period. 4.6. Wave orbital velocities and pressure. 4.7. Wave group statistics. 4.8. Surface area of an ocean waves -- 5. Properties of breaking waves. 5.1. Introduction. 5.2. Wave breaking in deep water. 5.3. Wave breaking in shallow water -- 6. Prediction of waves in deep water. 6.1. Introduction. 6.2. Basic wave processes in deep water. 6.3. Wave prediction models -- 7. Prediction of waves in shallow water. 7.1. Introduction. 7.2. Basic wave processes in shallow water. 7.3. Wave prediction models -- 8. Freak waves. 8.1. Introduction. 8.2. Freak wave oboccurrence of freak waves. 8.4. Freak wave generation -- 9. Tsunami. 9.1. Introduction. 9.2. Tsunami generation due to earthquake. 9.3. Tsunami due to landslides. 9.4. Tsunami due to meteorites impact -- 10. Waves at islands and coral reefs. 10.1. Introduction. 10.2. Maximum wave height on shoal flat. 10.3. Sheltering of surface waves by islands. 10.4. Scattering of waves by a group of islands. 10.5. Prediction of waves on island archipelagoes. 10.6. Interaction of waves with coral reef bottoms -- 11. Waves in mangrove forests. 11.1. Introduction. 11.2. Waves in mangrove forest of constant water depth. 11.3. Waves in mangrove forest of changing water depth -- 12. Wave-induced pressure and flow in a porous bottom. 12.1. Introduction. 12.2. Wave-induced pore pressure in sea bottom. 12.3. Pore pressure in sea bottom due to wave set-up. 12.4. Experimental data on pore pressure. 12.5. Spectral properties of wave-induced pore pressure. 12.6. Ciculation in permeable rippled bed -- 13. Wave observations and long-term statistics. 13.1. Introduction. 13.2. Wave observations. 13.3. Wave geography. 13.4. Long-term statistics of sea severity -- 14. Wave measurement techniques. 14.1. Introduction. 14.2. A single point wave data. 14.3. Remote sensing techniques -- 15. Data processing and simulation techniques. 15.1. Introduction. 15.2. Data processing methods. 15.3. Numerical simulation techniques
Waves In Oceanic And Coastal Waters
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Author : Leo H. Holthuijsen
language : en
Publisher: Cambridge University Press
Release Date : 2010-02-04
Waves In Oceanic And Coastal Waters written by Leo H. Holthuijsen and has been published by Cambridge University Press this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 2010-02-04 with Science categories.
Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters describes the observation, analysis and prediction of wind-generated waves in the open ocean, in shelf seas, and in coastal regions with islands, channels, tidal flats and inlets, estuaries, fjords and lagoons. Most of this richly illustrated book is devoted to the physical aspects of waves. After introducing observation techniques for waves, both at sea and from space, the book defines the parameters that characterise waves. Using basic statistical and physical concepts, the author discusses the prediction of waves in oceanic and coastal waters, first in terms of generalised observations, and then in terms of the more theoretical framework of the spectral energy balance. He gives the results of established theories and also the direction in which research is developing. The book ends with a description of SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore), the preferred computer model of the engineering community for predicting waves in coastal waters.
Ocean Waves And Oscillating Systems
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Author : Johannes Falnes
language : en
Publisher: Cambridge University Press
Release Date : 2020-05-28
Ocean Waves And Oscillating Systems written by Johannes Falnes and has been published by Cambridge University Press this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 2020-05-28 with Science categories.
Understand the absorption of energy from ocean waves by means of oscillating systems with this useful new edition. Essential for engineers, researchers, and graduate students, and an indispensable tool for those who work in this field.