The Science Of Ocean Waves
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The Science Of Ocean Waves
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Author : J. B. Zirker
language : en
Publisher: JHU Press
Release Date : 2013-12-18
The Science Of Ocean Waves written by J. B. Zirker and has been published by JHU Press this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 2013-12-18 with Science categories.
An unparalleled introduction to the amazing world of ocean waves. Outstanding Academic Title, Choice "Powerful ocean waves fascinate the public, and they have made a lot of news lately." With that indisputable observation, scientist J. B. Zirker takes off on a whirlwind tour of the world of waves—from the “ordinary” waves that constantly churn the sea to the rogues or freaks that can rise up seemingly from nowhere to heights of 20 meters or more . . . and everything in between. Addressing questions most ocean visitors have had and offering new ones for our consideration, The Science of Ocean Waves explains in accessible language how waves are formed, how they move, how they become huge and destructive, and how they're being studied now for clues that will help us plan for the future. Devoting chapters to wind, tides, currents, breakers, tsunamis, forecasting, renewable energy, and El Niño—as well as discussing the gentler properties of ocean waves which inspire us and offer opportunities for relaxation and recreation—Zirker explores the physical factors that create waves. Drawing on some of the recent storms that have devastated entire regions—such as Hurricane Katrina, the tsunami launched by the 2004 Sumatran earthquake, and the great tsunami that crushed the shore of Japan in 2011—Zirker explains the forces that cause these monster waves and reveals the toll they take on human lives. Enhanced by dozens of illustrations and a comprehensive glossary, The Science of Ocean Waves will fascinate anyone curious about the science behind the headlines. Praise for J. B. Zirker “Scientists know their stuff but are rarely good storytellers, whereas good storytellers rarely possess the necessary sweeping command of a scientific discipline. Zirker is that rare animal who can both communicate the most demanding technical detail and make it accessible.”—New Scientist
Waves In The Ocean
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Author : P.H. LeBlond
language : en
Publisher: Elsevier
Release Date : 1981-01-01
Waves In The Ocean written by P.H. LeBlond and has been published by Elsevier this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 1981-01-01 with Science categories.
This is a book which will be welcomed not only by researchers and engineers, but also by teachers and students, as it contains the only comprehensive review of the dynamics of ocean waves. Existing books are now either out of date or restricted to specialized aspects of the subject, whereas this book covers all types of ocean waves, ranging from capillary to planetary waves. Because of its completeness of coverage, its use of elementary mathematics and the provision of numerous problems and exercises, the book will be an indispensable text for everyone. It is completed by a very lengthy bibliography which includes many references to the Russian literature.
Ocean Wave Dynamics
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Author : Ian Young
language : en
Publisher: World Scientific
Release Date : 2020-03-20
Ocean Wave Dynamics written by Ian Young and has been published by World Scientific this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 2020-03-20 with Science categories.
Ocean Wave Dynamics is the most up-to-date book of its kind on the three main processes responsible for the generation and evolution of ocean waves: (i) atmospheric input from the wind, (ii) wave breaking and (iii) nonlinear interactions.Ocean waves are important for many reasons. They are the major environmental impact on in the design of coastal or offshore structures. Ocean waves are also fundamental to the processes of coastal flooding and beach erosion. They will play a major role in storm related coastal flooding which will rise in frequency as a result of sea level rise. Ocean waves are also an important part of the coupled ocean-atmosphere system. They determine the roughness of the ocean surface and hence have an impact on winds, fluxes of energy, gases and heat to the ocean and even the stability of ice sheets.Containing the latest research on ocean waves, it is a valuable resource for an overview of knowledge in this important field.Related Link(s)
Ocean Waves And Kindred Geophysical Phenomena
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Author : Vaughan Cornish
language : en
Publisher: Cambridge University Press
Release Date : 2015-10-15
Ocean Waves And Kindred Geophysical Phenomena written by Vaughan Cornish and has been published by Cambridge University Press this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 2015-10-15 with Science categories.
Originally published in 1934, this book identifies and analyses the different types of waves most prevalent amongst the world's oceans and rivers and is an account of the author's original contributions to the knowledge of wave phenomena. Chapter one comprehensively explores the size and speed of ocean waves in relation to the velocity of wind, chapter two analyses waves in sand and snow formed and propelled by wind and current, whist chapter three investigates tidal bores and other progressive waves in rivers. The book also contains a variety of insightful and fascinating photographs presenting the different varieties of wave formation, such as tidal sand waves, leaping waves and the roll waves of a stream. This book will serve as an important reference work for researchers in the field and will be of considerable value to anyone interested in geophysics, climatology and oceanography.
Wind Generated Ocean Waves
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Author : I.R. Young
language : en
Publisher: Elsevier
Release Date : 1999-03-23
Wind Generated Ocean Waves written by I.R. Young and has been published by Elsevier this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 1999-03-23 with Science categories.
The goals of wind wave research are relatively well defined: to be able to predict the wind wave field and its effect on the environment. That environment could be natural (beaches, the atmosphere etc.) or imposed by human endeavour (ports, harbours, coastal settlements etc.). Although the goals are similar, the specific requirements of these various fields differ considerably. This book attempts to summarise the current state of this knowledge and to place this understanding into a common frame work. It attempts to take a balanced approach between the pragmatic engineering view of requiring a short term result and the scientific quest for detailed understanding. Thus, it attempts to provide a rigorous description of the physical processes involved as well as practical predictive tools.
Extreme Ocean Waves
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Author : Efim Pelinovsky
language : en
Publisher: Springer Science & Business Media
Release Date : 2008-06-27
Extreme Ocean Waves written by Efim Pelinovsky and has been published by Springer Science & Business Media this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 2008-06-27 with Science categories.
Extreme, freak or rogue waves are produced by a number of physical mechanisms that focus the water-wave energy into a small area, due to wave instability, chaotic behaviour, dispersion (frequency modulation), refraction (presence of variable currents or bottom topography), soliton interactions, etc. During the past thirty years a number of physical models of the rogue wave phenomenon have been intensively developed. Numerous experimental, statistical and theoretical investigations are intended to understand the physics of the huge wave formation, its relation to the environmental conditions and to provide a freak wave design for engineering purposes. The book details the vast progress that has been achieved in the understanding of the physical mechanisms of rogue wave phenomenon in recent years. The selected articles address such issues as the formation of freak waves due to modulation instability of nonlinear wave field, physical and statistical properties of rogue wave generation in deep water and in shallow water, various models of nonlinear water waves, special analysis of nonlinear resonances between water waves and the relation between observations and freak wave theories. The book is written for specialists in the fields of fluid mechanics, applied mathematics, nonlinear physics, physical oceanography and geophysics, and for students learning these subjects.
Ocean Waves And Oscillating Systems
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Author : Johannes Falnes
language : en
Publisher: Cambridge University Press
Release Date : 2020-05-28
Ocean Waves And Oscillating Systems written by Johannes Falnes and has been published by Cambridge University Press this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 2020-05-28 with Science categories.
Understand the absorption of energy from ocean waves by means of oscillating systems with this useful new edition. Essential for engineers, researchers, and graduate students, and an indispensable tool for those who work in this field.
Extreme Ocean Waves
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Author : Efim Pelinovsky
language : en
Publisher: Springer
Release Date : 2015-09-02
Extreme Ocean Waves written by Efim Pelinovsky and has been published by Springer this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 2015-09-02 with Science categories.
This revised and updated second edition details the vast progress that has been achieved in the understanding of the physical mechanisms of rogue wave phenomenon in recent years. The selected articles address such issues as the formation of rogue waves due to modulational instability of nonlinear wave field, physical and statistical properties of extreme ocean wave generation in deep water as well as in shallow water, various models of nonlinear water waves, special analysis of nonlinear resonances between water waves and the relation between in situ observations, experimental data and rogue wave theories. In addition, recent results on tsunami waves due to subaerial landslides are presented. This book is written for specialists in the fields of fluid mechanics, applied mathematics, nonlinear physics, physical oceanography and geophysics, and for students learning these subjects.
The Interaction Of Ocean Waves And Wind
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Author : Peter Janssen
language : en
Publisher: Cambridge University Press
Release Date : 2004-10-28
The Interaction Of Ocean Waves And Wind written by Peter Janssen and has been published by Cambridge University Press this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 2004-10-28 with Science categories.
This book was published in 2004. The Interaction of Ocean Waves and Wind describes in detail the two-way interaction between wind and ocean waves and shows how ocean waves affect weather forecasting on timescales of 5 to 90 days. Winds generate ocean waves, but at the same time airflow is modified due to the loss of energy and momentum to the waves; thus, momentum loss from the atmosphere to the ocean depends on the state of the waves. This volume discusses ocean wave evolution according to the energy balance equation. An extensive overview of nonlinear transfer is given, and as a by-product the role of four-wave interactions in the generation of extreme events, such as freak waves, is discussed. Effects on ocean circulation are described. Coupled ocean-wave, atmosphere modelling gives improved weather and wave forecasts. This volume will interest ocean wave modellers, physicists and applied mathematicians, and engineers interested in shipping and coastal protection.
Ocean Surface Waves
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Author : Stanislaw R. Massel
language : en
Publisher: World Scientific
Release Date : 1996
Ocean Surface Waves written by Stanislaw R. Massel and has been published by World Scientific this book supported file pdf, txt, epub, kindle and other format this book has been release on 1996 with Science categories.
This book is intended as a handbook for professionals and researchers in the areas of Physical Oceanography, Ocean and Coastal Engineering and as a text for graduate students in these fields. It presents a comprehensive study on surface ocean waves induced by wind, including basic mathematical principles, physical description of the observed phenomena, practical forecasting techniques of various wave parameters and applications in ocean and coastal engineering, all from the probabilistic and spectral points of view. The book commences with a description of mechanisms of surface wave generation by wind and its modern modeling techniques. The stochastic and probabilistic terminology is introduced and the basic statistical and spectral properties of ocean waves are developed and discussed in detail. The bulk of material deals with the prediction techniques for waves in deep and coastal waters for simple and complex ocean basins and complex bathymetry. The various prediction methods, currently used in oceanography and ocean engineering, are described and the examples of practical calculations illustrate the basic text. An appendix provides a description of the modern methods of wave measurement, including the remote sensing techniques. Also the wave simulation methods and random data analysis techniques are discussed. In the book a lot of discoveries of the Russian and East European scientists, largely unknown in the Western literature due to the language barrier, are referred to.